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        <title>Rear rotor</title>
        <link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/topic/3177/t/Rear-rotor.html</link>
        <description>
        <![CDATA[ My rear brake pads were changed out approx 1000 miles ago. Now i have developed a &quot;swish swish&quot; sound from the rear brakes. My bike savoy friends say the rotor is scored pretty deep and probably warped. I would say the caliper is'nt opening enough. The brakes do not work as good as when first replaced. Do you think they have glazed over from heat?
Anybody out there no of the best and cheepest place to get a new Rear rotor? I found an aftermarket one for $132.00.
Is it hard to... ]]>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jun 2006 14:34:26 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Rear rotor ]]></title>
			<link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/reply/23684/t/Rear-rotor.html#reply-23684</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I bought a new OEM rear rotor and never put it on before selling her (my T). Anybody want it???? Just make a reasonable offer Please. <br><br>
Kens T ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Kens T)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/sreply/23684</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 10 Feb 2007 06:41:59 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Rear rotor ]]></title>
			<link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/reply/23683/t/Rear-rotor.html#reply-23683</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Ken invest in the best set of Allen wrenches you can find.  I highly recommend the Craftsmen brand from Sears.  They are T handle type wrench that can stand the gaff you will be putting them through.  A full set of metric sizes cost $19.95 and you can get them in SAE sizes as well.  I bought both and have never regretted it.  It isn't usual for me to recommend a specific item by brand name but these wrenches are good enough to deserve singling out.<br><br>
Lou ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (hombldr)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/sreply/23683</guid>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Jun 2006 21:08:18 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Rear rotor ]]></title>
			<link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/reply/23682/t/Rear-rotor.html#reply-23682</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ <!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="color:white;">Ken....you've given the rest of hope that maybe we can dicker for better pricing, but I've got a suspicion we might not be as lucky as you. Maybe you're a better crier than the rest of us. Anyway good going and good luck when it comes to the pads.<br><br>
alepel</span><!--EZCODE FONT END--> ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (alepel)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/sreply/23682</guid>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Jun 2006 17:46:51 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Rear rotor ]]></title>
			<link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/reply/23681/t/Rear-rotor.html#reply-23681</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Well i finally broke down and bought a new rotor.<br>
I went to the local Dealer where i bought the bike used from.<br>
I begged like a child for a lower price than retail for the part.<br>
The retail over the counter cost was $250.00 out the door. (Isn't that crazy) After begging the parts guy, reminding them i bought the bike from them and have been buying small items here and there they should give me a break.   IT WORKED!<br>
OUT THE DOOR FOR $168.00.   I know the cost is still high, but... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Kens T)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/sreply/23681</guid>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Jun 2006 17:01:21 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Rear rotor ]]></title>
			<link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/reply/23680/t/Rear-rotor.html#reply-23680</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ The EBC pads I used on mine would not allow me to put the thin metal shim back in. So, I left it out. It seems that the aftermarket pads are slightly thicker than the factory ones. If you have installed this shim, then it may be causing the new pads to be a little too tight. You can always go back later and install the shim after you have some wear time on the pads if you want.<br><br>
If you find that you still need a rotor, then there are several on ebay for other Honda's that will fit the... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (bamaTrider)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/sreply/23680</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 21 Jun 2006 05:33:32 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Rear rotor ]]></title>
			<link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/reply/23679/t/Rear-rotor.html#reply-23679</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I had a truck that did something like this. The problem was so mad it wore out my new pads in 6 months. The solution was to thouroughly clean the calipers. just removing the brake dust allowed the calipers to "let loose".<br><br>
Just a thought. ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (mike2000t)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/sreply/23679</guid>
			<pubDate>Tue, 20 Jun 2006 15:28:51 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Rear rotor ]]></title>
			<link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/reply/23678/t/Rear-rotor.html#reply-23678</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Ken, I have not seen a specific kit for rebuilding the disk brake calipers, but you can get all the parts you need at:<br><br><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href="http://www.powersportspro.com/partsfish/login.asp">www.powersportspro.com/pa.../login.asp</a><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END--><br><br>
or <br><br><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href="http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/OEM-Parts.asp">www.bikebandit.com/partsb...-Parts.asp</a><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END--><br><br>
or <br><br><!--EZCODE... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Fredrider)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/sreply/23678</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jun 2006 23:24:42 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Rear rotor ]]></title>
			<link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/reply/23677/t/Rear-rotor.html#reply-23677</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ there typically isn't enought &quot;meat&quot; on a bike rotor to have it turned. the new vs service limit spec is only a few mm. <br><br>
it is normal for disc brakes to drag the pads a bit against the rotor. before you rebuild the caliper, try cleaning up the outside, make sure the pins are clean and properly lubed, and flush the fluid if it is more than 2 years old.<br><br>
duke ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (dukey33)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/sreply/23677</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jun 2006 20:27:26 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Rear rotor ]]></title>
			<link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/reply/23676/t/Rear-rotor.html#reply-23676</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Sorry, I meant to type &quot;Caliper&quot;. Is there a re-build kit for the caliper? I think the caliper isn't opening up enough. I do not feel any pulsating in the rear brakes. Its like the brakes are being lightly applied all the time. A constant swwwiiissshhhh sound. seems to get worse as the brakes get hotter.<br><br>
Has anyone had a bike rotor turned? I was told you can't do that. <br><br>
Kens T ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Kens T)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/sreply/23676</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jun 2006 19:29:14 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Rear rotor ]]></title>
			<link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/reply/23675/t/Rear-rotor.html#reply-23675</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Ken,<br><br>
Check the pad/rotor install procecure with a Honda book.  When I replaced my front tire I had the pads/calipers off.  When I put everything back together I had the &quot;swish-swich&quot; noise.  One night I was reading the manual which said I had to adjust the calipers to insure the caliper frame did not rub on the rotor.  Sure enough,  it was and was the cuplrit of my noise.  The fix was to loosen the pinch bolts, spread the front forks just a little, enough to get .090... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (CleRider)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/sreply/23675</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jun 2006 18:41:44 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Re: Rear rotor ]]></title>
			<link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/reply/23674/t/Rear-rotor.html#reply-23674</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Ken, car brake rotors are commonly turned on a lathe to make them smooth again.  This can usually be done once, sometimes twice.  If a rotor has not been turned it will have grooves and will not match the new brake pads until they have &quot;worn-in&quot;.  After some usage the new pads will match the rotor.  At that time braking should be as good as it was with the old pads providing the new pads are the same material as the old pads.  If the new pads are made from a different material they... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Fredrider)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/sreply/23674</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jun 2006 18:27:32 GMT</pubDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[ Rear rotor ]]></title>
			<link>http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/topic/3177/t/Rear-rotor.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ My rear brake pads were changed out approx 1000 miles ago. Now i have developed a &quot;swish swish&quot; sound from the rear brakes. My bike savoy friends say the rotor is scored pretty deep and probably warped. I would say the caliper is'nt opening enough. The brakes do not work as good as when first replaced. Do you think they have glazed over from heat?<br><br>
Anybody out there no of the best and cheepest place to get a new Rear rotor? I found an aftermarket one for $132.00.<br><br>
Is... ]]></description>

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			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Kens T)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/topic/3177</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jun 2006 14:34:26 GMT</pubDate>
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