Rear rotor

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Kens T	Rear rotor		Lead	[-]
Posts: 180 06/12/06 2:34 PM Road Captain	Tags : None My rear brake pads were changed out approx 1000 miles ago. Now i have developed a "swish swish" sound from the rear brakes. My bike savoy friends say the rotor is scored pretty deep and probably warped. I would say the caliper is'nt opening enough. The brakes do not work as good as when first replaced. Do you think they have glazed over from heat? Anybody out there no of the best and cheepest place to get a new Rear rotor? I found an aftermarket one for $132.00. Is it hard to rebuild the rotor and where do you get the kit? Kens T
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Fredrider	Re: Rear rotor	#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 5863 06/12/06 6:27 PM	Ken, car brake rotors are commonly turned on a lathe to make them smooth again. This can usually be done once, sometimes twice. If a rotor has not been turned it will have grooves and will not match the new brake pads until they have "worn-in". After some usage the new pads will match the rotor. At that time braking should be as good as it was with the old pads providing the new pads are the same material as the old pads. If the new pads are made from a different material they could provide better or worse braking, depending on what the two different brake pad materials are. I know of no kit that is used to rebuild a rotor. Fred
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CleRider	Re: Rear rotor	#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1904 06/12/06 6:41 PM	Ken, Check the pad/rotor install procecure with a Honda book. When I replaced my front tire I had the pads/calipers off. When I put everything back together I had the "swish-swich" noise. One night I was reading the manual which said I had to adjust the calipers to insure the caliper frame did not rub on the rotor. Sure enough, it was and was the cuplrit of my noise. The fix was to loosen the pinch bolts, spread the front forks just a little, enough to get .090 clearance between the frame and rotor; then re-tighten the pinch bolts. I don't know the pad replacement procedure for a VTX but there may be some kind of adjustment you might need to make. As for a warped rotor. My only experience has been with the front rotors on cars and generally they were warped because they were rusted from the inside out. No amount of turning was going to fix the problem. The symptom of a warped rotor is an osilating feel in the brake pedal as the brakes are applied. The swish-shish noise might be the rear tire out of alignment or a slightly bent rotor. As for the grooves, I always like to think of them as more surface area for better braking. Andy
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Kens T	Re: Rear rotor	#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 180 06/12/06 7:29 PM Road Captain	Sorry, I meant to type "Caliper". Is there a re-build kit for the caliper? I think the caliper isn't opening up enough. I do not feel any pulsating in the rear brakes. Its like the brakes are being lightly applied all the time. A constant swwwiiissshhhh sound. seems to get worse as the brakes get hotter. Has anyone had a bike rotor turned? I was told you can't do that. Kens T
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dukey33	Re: Rear rotor	#4	[url]	[-]
HSATF 1st Officer Posts: 676 06/12/06 8:27 PM	there typically isn't enought "meat" on a bike rotor to have it turned. the new vs service limit spec is only a few mm. it is normal for disc brakes to drag the pads a bit against the rotor. before you rebuild the caliper, try cleaning up the outside, make sure the pins are clean and properly lubed, and flush the fluid if it is more than 2 years old. duke
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Fredrider	Re: Rear rotor	#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 5863 06/12/06 11:24 PM	Ken, I have not seen a specific kit for rebuilding the disk brake calipers, but you can get all the parts you need at: www.powersportspro.com/pa.../login.asp or www.bikebandit.com/partsb...-Parts.asp or www.ronayers.com/fiche/ge...cfm?man=ho Fred
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mike2000t	Re: Rear rotor	#6	[url]	[-]
HSATF Road Captain Posts: 336 06/20/06 3:28 PM Second Officer	I had a truck that did something like this. The problem was so mad it wore out my new pads in 6 months. The solution was to thouroughly clean the calipers. just removing the brake dust allowed the calipers to "let loose". Just a thought.
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bamaTrider	Re: Rear rotor	#7	[url]	[-]
HSATF 1st Officer Posts: 3702 06/21/06 5:33 AM	The EBC pads I used on mine would not allow me to put the thin metal shim back in. So, I left it out. It seems that the aftermarket pads are slightly thicker than the factory ones. If you have installed this shim, then it may be causing the new pads to be a little too tight. You can always go back later and install the shim after you have some wear time on the pads if you want. If you find that you still need a rotor, then there are several on ebay for other Honda's that will fit the T. I have a CB650 Nighthawk front rotor that is identical to the rear on out T. The only difference is that the Nighthawk rotor is not drilled. Stan 1999 Ace Tourer (Silver over Black) 2000 Suzuki Marauder VZ800 (Custom)
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Kens T	Re: Rear rotor	#8	[url]	[-]
Posts: 180 06/29/06 5:01 PM Road Captain	Well i finally broke down and bought a new rotor. I went to the local Dealer where i bought the bike used from. I begged like a child for a lower price than retail for the part. The retail over the counter cost was $250.00 out the door. (Isn't that crazy) After begging the parts guy, reminding them i bought the bike from them and have been buying small items here and there they should give me a break. IT WORKED! OUT THE DOOR FOR $168.00. I know the cost is still high, but ya know it felt good to get a break. I got real HONDA parts and didn't have to mess with shipping costs. I was so caught up in the negotiating i forgot i wanted pads too. D'oh. I will go back another day soon and try that again with the new pads i need. I guess the next thing is to read up on the changing of the rotor. Any body have any words of wisdom before i start? Kens T
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alepel	Re: Rear rotor	#9	[url]	[-]
Posts: 7794 06/29/06 5:46 PM	Ken....you've given the rest of hope that maybe we can dicker for better pricing, but I've got a suspicion we might not be as lucky as you. Maybe you're a better crier than the rest of us. Anyway good going and good luck when it comes to the pads. alepel
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hombldr	Re: Rear rotor	#10	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1898 06/29/06 9:08 PM First Officer	Ken invest in the best set of Allen wrenches you can find. I highly recommend the Craftsmen brand from Sears. They are T handle type wrench that can stand the gaff you will be putting them through. A full set of metric sizes cost $19.95 and you can get them in SAE sizes as well. I bought both and have never regretted it. It isn't usual for me to recommend a specific item by brand name but these wrenches are good enough to deserve singling out. Lou
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Kens T	Re: Rear rotor	#11	[url]	[-]
Posts: 180 02/10/07 6:41 AM Road Captain	I bought a new OEM rear rotor and never put it on before selling her (my T). Anybody want it???? Just make a reasonable offer Please. Kens T
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