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Thanks Skip! This will help a lot. Now, if I can just find the time and not tear anything up. I figured that I would at least try it. Worst case will be that I still will have to take it to the dealer if I run into trouble. Even at that, the labor cost will be reduced to 1 hour at $46 per hour for putting the gear back on. Dealer says they will install the gear only for 1 hr min charge if I do all the other work like removeing and replacing the exhaust and side cover. I'm going to sell the '00 T this spring and I did'nt want to sell it needing this gear replaced.

Stan

Hey Skip, the part# for the gear is not for the ACE TOURER according to the parts house. It is however for other VT1100's. They tell me the part # for the T is HP-23110-MAH8-000. You think maybe your dealer used a different VT1100 gear for a reason? I was quoted a price of $135 for gasket and gear with free S&H based on the MAH8-000 part# above.

Stan

I finally got around to replacing the primary drive gear this weekend. It took care of the noise. No more L'tick, L'tick, L'tick.

It was not as hard as I expected. The hardest thing was getting the exhaust broken down and removed because some of the bolts were rusty. A little Rust Eater spray took care of that. I have pics available that I will post later of some of the work, plus the 2 gears side by side. I 1st want to figure out how to do the thumbnail thing on photobucket.

The gears are identical on the outside and inside. When I removed the old gear, two of the internal springs fell out of the grooves. They were not in tight at all as they should have been. The new gears springs were in so tight that I could not pull them out by hand. There was definately a tension difference between the 2 sets of springs.

Total time including reading the manual and taking the photos was around 4 hrs. I believe my next one will be half that time or close to it. Which from the sound of it won't be too much longer. My '99 is starting to get that occasional L'tick sound now. Not bad yet but it is comming I'm sure.

Stan

The only difficult part about the exhaust was getting the rusted clamp bolts loose w/o breaking the clamps or stripping the bolts. I did not remove the gaskets and they went right back in with no problem and no leaks.

Stan

This is the section of frame that has been removed to access side cover. You will notice that the radiator cover is off. You do not have to remove it. You only have to remove top radiator bolt and lift the radiator up in an angle to dis-lodge it from the frame section. No need to remove hoses, just pull up firmly and it should slide out of the holders on the frame section.

Also, you do not have to remove the footpeg completely. If you have anything bolted to the front footpeg bolt such as an engine gaurd, then you only have to remove that one bolt. On the other side of the frame there are 2 bolts in the frame just above the front shifter peg. Remove those 2 bolts.
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(1) Completely remove the exhaust system, and drain the oil.

(2) At the rear of the frame section you will see 2 small bolts. These are what held the brake master cylinder and cover on and will need to be removed. The connecting rod from the brake cylinder to the brake petal can be unscrewed from the back of the petal by loosening the lock nuts and using pair of pliers to unscrew it out of the bracket. Then just fold the brake cylinder up and back, and then use a bungie cord or string to hold it up out of the way.

(3) The brake light switch can be un-hooked via the small spring and pulled forward out of the frame holder. The wire from it can be un-hooked by bending the tab on the frame section up from the back side.

(4) The horn wiring can simply be un-done just by pulling the connectors from the rear of the horn.

(5) Next remove the nut and washers from the front engine mount.

(6) The only thing left to do is to remove the 4 allen bolts (2 on each end of the frame section) and removing the frame section as a unit. You will need to pay attention to the radiator tab on the other side of the frame to make sure the radiator is not in the way of pulling the frame section outward toward you.


(7) Remove all the bolts in the clutch cover and remove the cover. It may be stuck a little, so you may have to use a large flathead screwdriver to pry it off at the top side between the case bolt and the cover. Then remove all the 8mm bolts surrounding the side cover. In these pics my finger is pointing to the tabs built into the sidecover for the purpose of tapping or prying the cover loose from the engine. I used a hardwood block and a small plastic mallet to tap it loose. Using anything harder could chip the tabs off.




I installed the allen head bolt into the slotted part of the primary gear and tightened. If your gear assembly did not come with this bolt, then you can borrow one from the clutch to handlebar clamp. Make sure it is not longer than 20mm or it will protrude too far on the backside of gear and cause case damage.

For a gear holder, I used a nickle placed between the top teeth of the primary gear and the clutch ring gear. Remove the large gear center bolt. being careful not to damage the ignition pick-up sensor towards the bottom right of the gear, gently remove the gear assembly by pulling it outward.


This is what the gears looked like side by side, new vs. old.



In this photo you'll notice a screwdriver in one of the gears holes. This is not the same hole as the one you used the allen head screw in before, but instead is where I placed a #2 philli[s screwdriver into, in order to pre allign the sub-gear and primary gear teeth together. When they are in allignment, tighten the small allenhead bolt (the same one used earlier in your old gear assembly0 to hold it that way.This pre-loads the springs and must be done in order for the 2 gears to match the splines on the crankshaft. Compare the teeth on the crankshaft and should see a wide tooth. Be sure to match the wide slot in the gears and the ignition pick-up wheel to the wide tooth on the shaft. Do not force it as it should go on smoothly and fully seat flush with the clutch ring gear.


Remove the small allen head bolt from the gear assembly. Replace the ignition pick-up wheel being certain the splines match up, and then install and tighten the gear center bolt to spec (72 ft lbs.) using a torque wrench. Again the nickle will be used (on the bottom side this time) as a gear holder.

When replacing the side cover, be sure to have someone to hold the shifter in, as you place the cover back onto the engine. If no one is available to help you, you can place a spring clamp and block of wood on the front peg and against the shifter to hold it in. This will prevent it from being pushed out the other side as the cover is pushed on. Put the bolts into the cover and hand tighten only 2 of them. Check to see if the shifter works properly (do not crank engine). You will definately know right away if it does not feel right because it either will not move at all, or will flop freely.

If the shifter feels right, then proceed to tighten all the cover bolts to spec. (9 ft. lbs. or 108 inch lbs) Do not over tighten them. If you have one, then use an inch pound torque wrench to tighten them. Otherwise, hand tighten firmly with a socket in a nutdriver. Do the same on the clutch cover.

Repalce the frame section and all the components to it. Replace the exhaust and fill with 3 qts. of oil. Start the engine and check for leaks.

I know this is a lot of reading and hopefully I did'nt leave anything important out. If I did, then feel free to point it out so that I can correct it.

Some of my pics did not show up well. I wanted to use photos from the manual along with the instructions but could not figure out how to upload the PDF files into Photobucket w/o copying the entire file of 304 pages.

If you have questions or problems, then feel free to ask. I will help anyway I can.

Stan