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ShadowHoek |
Engine tappet/lifter noise |
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Just wanted to pass on some findings of my own regarding the front cylinder lifter noise I've read others having. I currently have 25k on my T - using
Amsoil 10w-40 with the Pure1 filter. On our recent trip to Mn the lifter noise was fairly prevalent as we road through towns or stopped for gas or a bite to
eat. Its more an embarassement than a problem - but we all want a nice quiet engine. After we got back home I began a small experiment by draining a small
quantity of oil and then adding approx. 1-2- fl oz of STP Engine treatment. I've tallied over 100 miles since and haven't heard a single clatter.
Tonight was actually a better test as the wife and I scooped the three camping loops at a camp ground near our town. I never got out of second gear - the
cooling fan kicked in and out at least 6 times so the engine was getting hot. Not even an inkling of a clatter as we putted and weaved through the camp sites.
I've not noticed any clutch slippage or any other problems thus far - the engine certainly runs quieter and seems tighter. Look forward to feedback and
other opinions.....
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bamaTrider |
#1 | |||
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I think the Amsoil (or any full synthetic for that matter) may be a little too thin for these engines. You are not the 1st that I have heard this from. I think
maybe the STP gave you a heavier weight of oil. Other complaints that I have heard are that the bike started using oil, or leaking oil after using Amsoil,
where as it didn't before. Switching to Rotella made a similar improvement as the STP did when you used it. The most notable difference was the smoother
shifting with Rotella.
Stan
"We are different - yet we are the
same"
2004 GL1800 Goldwing (Titanium) 1999 Ace Tourer (Silver over Black) |
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ShadowHoek |
#2 | |||
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Good points Stan, here I thought I'd found a magical elixer additive and really only increased the viscosity which you get when using a heavier weight oil.
Oh well, it was fun. I'll be heading for Walmart to get me some Rotella 15-40w..... The Amsoil came from a church friend who runs a new Harley and uses the
stuff in everything he drives.....
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dukey33 |
#3 | |||
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The Amsoil 10-40 and the Rotella 15-40 are the same viscosity. But you may have different results just from changing brand. Those diesel specific oils tend to
have some good strong detergents in them.
duke
loud horns save lives |
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bamaTrider |
#4 | |||
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I have nothing against Amsoil myself. I'm using it in my GL1800 Wing now along with the Amsoil 15K mile filter and it's doing great. But, I hear an
occasional gripe about synthetics in general not being the perfect oil for V-twins. Just about all of the complaints were from V-twin owners. Go figure?
I was told that the Wing would shift smoother with the Amsoil. Personally, I can't honestly say that part is any different than Honda's own dyno oil. But when I switched from Honda oil to Rotella 15w40 in my T, there was an immediately noticeable difference in how smooth it shifted. Stan
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Marpesia2 |
#5 | |||
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The tappety-tappety noise is a worrisome annoyance that I have, too. The first time I ever noticed it was when I learned that my oil pressure idiot light was
burnt out, and that the oil I had decided to use in the last oil change sucked.
Basically, I'd used that crappy oil up, and my crankcase ran so low in such a short time that my oil pump started sucking air - viola, inadequate lubrication. I think I diverted my ride when I heard the noise directly to the shop where we discovered the problem. That was back when the bike was still pretty new to me and I was experimenting with different oils - and it only had about 8k miles on it. Now I have more like 38k (or is it 48k, now I can't recall) and I'm hearing it more regularly, even with fresh good oil. But, the oil selection does seem to make a lot of difference. Usually, I've been using 10w50 synthetic and liking it. Still, I have been hearing some of that sound. However, a couple weeks ago, my shop talked me into trying 20w50 synthetic. They claimed that the 10w50 would be getting burned up too quickly in my bike given its mileage. Hogwash, methinks. I think what that means (unless I'm deliriously not remembering my oil physiochemistry properly) is that those guys don't really understand the viscosity designations. The oil should only be behaving as 10w oil when the engine is cold and needs thinner oil anyway. It should begin heating and pass through the 10w range quickly, ultimately rising to full operating temperature and behaving at 50w for most of it's operational time. Sure enough, now with that stupid 20w50, I'm hearing that tickety-tickety steady with every startup for the five first full minutes of operation - which is apparently how long it takes for the engine to heat enough to thin 20w oil enough to pump adequately. Unless the engine is really drastically worn, or you are in the deep south starting the engine consistently in 100 degree weather, I really don't see any value whatsoever in using an oil that has a lower number above 10w. I think the more important number is the higher number which, in my well-used engine is definitely preferred at 50w nowadays. I suspect that the 10w40 vs 20w50 issue is because of the original dyno oils being unable to span all the way from 10w to 50w. The delightful synthetics, however, don't share that limitation and I am now a huge fan of that 10w50 synthetic. I've also experienced very good shifting behavior on the 10w50 synthetics. I vaguely recall dyno oils briefly coming out (perhaps a first coming out) in a version that attempted to span too much range (was it 5w40?) that quickly became widely reviled and vilified (and maybe even recalled or discontinued, though perhaps later reissued). Marpesia |
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ngmcbiker |
#6 | |||
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Regarding tappet noise. I had when I first got my bike (used with 17K on it). I could not figure it out till someone suggested I was low on oil. I said no
way that I checked regularly etc. Well, it turns out they were correct.
I was not reading the dipstick correctly ( I was screwing it in to read it) and just for giggles I put in too much once based upon the advice of a mc mechanic who said that tappets can get 'plugged' and short of taking the engnine apart, you can try to clear the plug by putting more 'pressure' in the oil and one way to do that is to overfill. Duh, I didn't know if he knew what he was talking about, but what the hey, it couldn't hurt could it, especially since the T burns oil like there is not tomorrow. Well low and behold, for whatever the reason, it worked. I now have no tappet noise. Now I do work at keeping the oil level up to snuff, but even when it drops the noise does not return. So, maybe there is something to the 'plugged' idea and maybe there is some useful way to unplug. I do not recommend what I did, just note that it worked. I won't recommend it because I am still not sure why it worked. |
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