Progressive Suspension Upgrade - Steering, Suspension, Frame and Handling - Technical Issues and Modifications - Honda Shadow ACE Tourer Forum - Message Board - Yuku

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Progressive Suspension Upgrade

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CleRider	Progressive Suspension Upgrade		Lead	[-]
Posts: 1904 07/25/07 2:58 PM	Tags : None Never did a complete upgrade, only changed out the front springs on my Goldwing. Learned a few things during the upgrade. The Progressive 412's are great. Riding with the slightest preload gives a plush, comfortable ride. When I load up for the rally's, I may adjust the preload a notch or two stiffer. Very easy to do with the supplied shock tool. The front springs were pretty easy. I was amazed that Honda preloaded their springs about four inches. The Progressive springs are about 3-4 inches longer than the stock Honda springs and I only had to preload them one inch. I made a mistake in the fork oil measuring. The proper way is to measure the distance between the top of the fork and the oil level, after removing the springs and fully compressing the forks. Initially I had the oil to 4.8 inches with the springs installed. Needless to say, the initial ride was rough. After I got the levels right, the ride got a lot better. The most noticable improvement/difference is the front fork travel. The stock Honda springs would move 6-8 inches and bottom out. The new Progressive springs only move 2-3 inches. I noticed a huge difference when navigating a few twisties last night. After going through this upgrade, I would recommend it to everyone. If you have the skills to change a tire and oil in a car, you have enough skills to change a bikes suspension. Andy
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2Smooth4U		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 256 08/15/07 9:12 PM Second Officer	CleRider wrote: Never did a complete upgrade, only changed out the front springs on my Goldwing. Learned a few things during the upgrade. The Progressive 412's are great. Riding with the slightest preload gives a plush, comfortable ride. When I load up for the rally's, I may adjust the preload a notch or two stiffer. Very easy to do with the supplied shock tool. The front springs were pretty easy. I was amazed that Honda preloaded their springs about four inches. The Progressive springs are about 3-4 inches longer than the stock Honda springs and I only had to preload them one inch. I made a mistake in the fork oil measuring. The proper way is to measure the distance between the top of the fork and the oil level, after removing the springs and fully compressing the forks. Initially I had the oil to 4.8 inches with the springs installed. Needless to say, the initial ride was rough. After I got the levels right, the ride got a lot better. The most noticable improvement/difference is the front fork travel. The stock Honda springs would move 6-8 inches and bottom out. The new Progressive springs only move 2-3 inches. I noticed a huge difference when navigating a few twisties last night. After going through this upgrade, I would recommend it to everyone. If you have the skills to change a tire and oil in a car, you have enough skills to change a bikes suspension. Andy CleRider, I want to change to Progressive springs on the front of my Ace-T. You make it sound so simple. It makes me wonder why my mechanic wants to charge me $150 labor to install them
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bamaTrider		#2	[url]	[-]
HSATF 1st Officer Posts: 3702 08/15/07 9:57 PM	The labor cost of $150 is about norm for this work on a std bike. It would be almost double that on a Wing because of all that has to be removed 1st. The Honda factory manual explains how to do this pretty well if you want to try it yourself. A word of concern is that if you tackle the disassembly in the wrong order, you can be seriously hurt by the springs. Stan "We are different - yet we are the same" 2004 GL1800 Goldwing (Titanium) 1999 Ace Tourer (Silver over Black)
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CleRider		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1904 08/16/07 11:48 AM	Stan, The biggest PITA with the wing was the anti-dive circuit on the right spring. Other than that, I think changing the Magna and Goldwing front springs was about the same effort. 2Smooth, It's not really too difficult. If I recall, I did the following: 1) Really important step, get the front tire off the ground... otherwise you are going to catch a loaded spring with your face or chest. 2) Loosen the end cap pinch bolts and remove the end caps. Be carefull cause the springs may be preloaded (compressed) a couple of inches. 3) Remove the old spring, save all washers and spacers 4) Now is a good time to change the fork oil. Most bikes have a drain bolt near the axle. 5) With the springs removed, compress the front forks. I put wood blocks under the wheel to keep it compressed. 6) Add fork oil to the recommended level. For my bike, that was about 4.8 inches. The measurement is the amount of air from the top of the oil to the top of the fork. I used a Mity-vac (brake bleeder). Put a 4.8 inch mark on the tube. Filled the forks to about 4 inches from the top then syphoned out the extra. 7) Remove the wheel block, decompressing (extending the fork). 8) Put the new springs into the fork tubes, using the same washers. 9) Progressive recommends approx one inch of preload. With a piece of PVC pipe, I created a pre-load spacer, about 1/4 inch above the spring caps. Since the caps thread down approx 3/4 inch, I would have a preload of one inch when the caps are installed. The best I can explain this is: With the springs, spacers and washers in place... the PVC sticks out of the top fork tripple tree about 1/4 inch. 10) Install the spring end caps, tighten the end cap pinch bolts. You can play with the fork oil but I found 10w to be the best. The oil controls the damper/recoil/recovery of the suspension. You can also play with the preload, in 1/4 inch increments. Preload a little more to get a stiffer ride,... a little less for a plusher ride. I found a 1 inch preload with 10w oil gave a nice ride but still stiff enough to have a little fun in the twisties. Andy Last Edited By: CleRider 08/16/07 11:52 AM. Edited 1 time.
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Deepchaos		#4	[url]	[-]
HSATF Member Posts: 23 06/25/08 3:39 AM	I have used Wilbers progressive springs in my ACE fork. It wasn't hard to change it and work cost no more than 50$. Drive with that springs is magic (specially in mountains) and brake way is more short if you use armored brake hose with it.
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