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biginch	wont start need help		Lead	[-]
HSATF Member Posts: 2 05/07/08 9:44 AM	Tags : None hello i am new to site and have a 98 and am having real problems this spring getting my shadow going. put in a new battery, old one bad bad cells, and lights and idiot lights were on then went to hit starter and boom everything went dead, no lights or idiot lights nothing, didn't hear a boom btw. well checked the main 30 amp fuse and not blown checked the accesory fuses nothing blown. Battery has charge but when i turn ignition switch i see no lights or anything. looked at earlier posts and cleaned the starter switch contact but not getting any power. I am bringing home my meter today to check everything and start trouble shooting. My guess is something burned open or came loose since i am not getting any lights or anything and the main fuse is not blown. Is there something i am missing like another fuse or fuse at the key switch ????? i don't have the manual yet since i bought the bike last year but would look forward to any help i could get since it seems to be by reading the posts that you guys are really knowledgable. Thank you in advance.
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mktobob		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 2287 05/07/08 11:09 AM	This may or may not help. Is the kill switch on kill? That is the red switch next to the right grip. I can't remember if the warning lights work or not when it is in the kill position. The side stand also has a sensor that can be goofy at times. I know this sounds simplistic, but I like to start with the things that we take for granted and assuming that those things are OK. Bob
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dukey33		#2	[url]	[-]
HSATF 1st Officer Posts: 695 05/07/08 2:03 PM	There is the main fuse and then all the ancillary fuses in the fuse box located aft of the battery. If you're not getting any power anywhere and the main fuse is good (btw, check it with your meter), I'd look for a bad connection on the battery cables either at the battery or at the other ends. Verify your new battery is not dead either. Most m/c batteries have to be filled and charged before being put into service. duke loud horns save lives
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biginch		#3	[url]	[-]
HSATF Member Posts: 2 05/07/08 4:37 PM	well so far all fuses are good and have 13 volts at the battery but goes to zero when i turn the key. shouldn't that stay at 13 ???? it shows continuity between negative and positive terminal when the key is turned to on. so that should mean that i have no open wires since i would have an open line reading like when the key is off.
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dukey33		#4	[url]	[-]
HSATF 1st Officer Posts: 695 05/07/08 9:19 PM	hmm...sounds like you have a dead short somewhere. When the key is switched on, there should be some drop in the battery voltage, but it should not go to zero. That leads me to think there is a dead short somewhere which will lead to smoke if you leave the power on long enough. Time to pull the saddle and look around to see what's happening. duke loud horns save lives
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Guns90		#5	[url]	[-]
HSATF 2nd Officer Posts: 401 05/08/08 10:23 AM	biginch, First of all, I would suggest that you think back to the last time that you had it running. Did you do anything to the bike that might have caused an open short; changed a bulb and pinched a wire, removed and replaced the seat and pinched a wire, or maybe loosened and adjusted any electrical attached component on the fender, handlebars, etc.? If so, check those out. Pay extra attention to any components that you have added on. Secondly, you have a several switches that could be giving you grief. The first test I would do is turn on your ignition switch and quickly turn on and off all of your switches one at a time to see if it by chance gets your lights to come on, even if only for a second. Be sure and test anything that has an electrical connection; brake levers, kickstand, gearshift, etc. If the on/off test doesn't do any good, you need to check electrical cuurent with test light on both sides of all your electrical components with each component both on and off. I'd start that process with the fuse box. Over the years here, we have had an ocassional T that has had bad kill switch, kickstand switch, and neutral safety switch. I think I remember a case of a frozen radiator fan motor once. This is just how I would start looking. I hope something here might help you. Good Luck. Oh, and don't let this discourage you. The T is still the best motorcycle I have ever owned; and that is saying a lot. Gary "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: Wow!!! What A Ride!!!" Last Edited By: Guns90 05/08/08 10:26 AM. Edited 1 time.
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alan		#6	[url]	[-]
HSATF Tail Gunner Posts: 139 05/09/08 10:05 PM	Check your grounding circuit. Electricity flows from negative to positive and just a bit of corrosion can block it. Follow the ground cable.
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alepel		#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 7898 05/10/08 9:36 AM	alan....welcome back. Have you returned home from Yuma? alepel "Ride with the Spirit always, and in all ways"....hombldr
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alan		#8	[url]	[-]
HSATF Tail Gunner Posts: 139 05/10/08 11:33 AM	Hi. I am home here in the great wet cold North. We arrived home on a Friday night and woke up to 18" of snow on our deck. The few days with sun that we've had have also had a cold icy wind. Only have ridden two days. Uncovered the bike, turned on the fuel and it started easily and quickly. I added fuel preservative last fall, kept it on a trickle charger, under a tarp with a 60 watt bulb to prevent condensation. Charger and bulb on a timer set for 2am to 11am and it was only off an hour for the whole winter. Oh, I also ran the fuel out of the engine and drained the carb bowls. No spring this year either........ no summer last year. I'm not loving Vancouver Island in the Socialist Paradise of Kanada. Gas is priced at over 1.33 per Liter X 3.8 liters per gallon. Upside is the decrease in cage traffic all over the island. Cloudy and drizzly today.......... sigh. Only 5 months til I head south again.
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