Most car tires run about 35psi on a car. On a bike you can run 35 or less and still get good handling and traction. Admitted, the c/t takes a little more input for steering and it gives a more feed back than a m/t but I like that 'cause I like to be as involved in the decision making process as I can be. With the added feedback and input on my part I feel more in control. Riding has become more a form of art than just lean-n-turn. I see a lot of riders that "turn" the bike rather than counter steer, this is not for them. If you are afraid of loosing control on a m/t then that is what you need to stay on until you can develop the necessary skills needed to handle a c/t (NOTE: the use of the word "you" is not intended to indicate any singular individual but rather in the collective sense, speaks to that reader that may feel the subject is indicative of his/her own situation). That being said, it will take some getting used to as the c/t has a few quirks that need to be addressed. The most intriguing of these is the tendency to self-center. Have you ever rolled a c/t across the floor? How about a m/c tire? If both tires are rolled on a level surface straight and true, the m/c tire will eventually fall over. But, the c/t, due to it's shape will stay upright. Rolling down the road, the c/t will want to try and maintain an upright position. This is not overly problematic in and of itself, but must be considered when going into a turn or ridding on a road surface that has a high crown. Any other concerns with a c/t on a bike relate mostly to the choice of tire one decides to go with. Some have different handling characteristics than others. I personally chose a tire that was directional and had the same speed rating or better than the m/c tire that I took off.

Joel

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Edited 1 time by guitstik Aug 29 08 10:28 AM.