I bought set of M/C Ent. bars. I installed them and the hit the shield, and they broke the turn signal due to the cobra light bar. What to do??
Damn engine guards
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 rockgt302 |
Damn engine guards |
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Posts: 48 11/05/05 11:20 PM Tail Gunner |
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maniac317 |
Re: Damn engine guards | #1 | ||
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Posts: 783 11/12/05 4:15 AM
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Return them for a refund if possible. Replace them with Cobra's highway bars, a better product IMO.
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mktobob |
Re: Damn engine guards | #2 | ||
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Posts: 2320 11/12/05 6:26 AM
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I have the Cobra engine guards and Cobra lightbar...no problem. Bob
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bamaTrider |
Re: Damn engine guards | #3 | ||
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HSATF 1st Officer
Posts: 3990 11/12/05 7:03 AM |
I also had the MC bars at 1st but managed to buy a set of new Cobra's off ebay. I changed them because I did'nt like the windshield hitting the bars. I could'nt return my MC's because they had been mounted so I sold them at a loss to recoup some of my money.
What part of your signal did you break? I may have an extra one lying around but it will only be the signal itself, no mount. Stan |
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rockgt302 |
Re: Damn engine guards | #4 | ||
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Posts: 48 11/14/05 1:03 AM Tail Gunner |
Well, I ordered a set of Cobras to compare, didnt like them so I sent them back. I already mounted the MC bars so I am stuck with them. So I modified the windshield. I cut the bottem off and rounded it up, I then moved the lightbar up wards. It looks great, cant tell I cut it, it looks oem. I will post some pics in a few days. I do like the MC bars better because of their forward design and more tappered look.
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ACE Tourer Rider |
Re: Damn engine guards | #5 | ||
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Posts: 112 11/19/05 4:13 AM Road Captain |
I would love to see pics of the winshield mod
Rob Allen
99 Honda ACE Tourer 95 Honda Magna |
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kunkies |
#6 | |||
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HSATF Member
Posts: 18 03/18/07 5:11 PM |
Fellow A.C.E. Tourer addicts:
I've read this forum inside & out and constantly see comparisons of MC, Cobra and others. I'm a Cobra loyal and HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM INSTALLING THEIR PRODUCTS. I just finished installing the engine guard, and although it took me two hours (I'm a perfectionist and not very handy  ) the finished products integrated PERFECTLY with my Cobra
Swept Floorboard and Radiator Guard. The only non-Cobra accessory I have is the superior quality center stand from Rivco. Next step Cobra highway pegs.
Net/net: IMO, pick a vendor and stick with it. Kunkies |
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hoosierace |
#7 | |||
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HSATF Member
Posts: 32 08/07/07 9:39 PM |
I also purchased the guards from MC. Knew ahead of time by reading the reviews that I might have a problem with it hitting the W-shield. I bought anyhow
because I liked the alignment of this particular bar to the frame. It curves towards the front. Nice style. I trimmed the w_shield about half way on the sides
of the turnsignals. It turned out fine. Looks great. I have Cobra parts on my bike. Although when it came to purchasing an engine guard Cobras seems to stick
out the sides to far. At least the ones I was looking at. They might make other brands. I also bought at the same time the MC highway lights. They mount on the
2 bottom screws on the shield. Easy install. If you are one that does not take off the W-Shield, they are in my mind the best for your $.
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BMac1100 |
#8 | |||
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HSATF Member
Posts: 28 08/13/07 11:46 AM |
Can you give a little guidance on the windshield cutting procedure you used, (prep, cutting tool, etc). I am in the same situation with the shield hitting
the hwy bars and have been thinking about cutting the windshield but wasn't sure how to proceed when lo and behold the subject pops up on the forum.
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hoosierace |
#9 | |||
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HSATF Member
Posts: 32 08/13/07 9:13 PM |
Here it is Mac - 1st thing. Sorry about getting back so late. I love this Forum. Just don't have the time to spend on it.
I used a Jig saw with a blade designed to cut palstic (Menards). I first lined out with a marker (Not permanent) on one side for an outline. I then took that cut piece and taped it on the other side to use as a guide to cut. It doesn't take much to cut. Be patient and cut slowly. It took every bit of 5 mins to cut both sides. My cut started on the outside edge in the middle of the turn signal. I rounded it off. Then I cut about the same place on the inside part, and rounded it there. I used 300 grit sandpaper on the end to smooth out. It did not take much sanding. It turned out fine. As I said earlier I liked the way the MC looked over the Cobras. If you have mounted your MC guard check it out from the back end. The outer edge of the guard falls right in line with the bag rail. Nice fit. Plus the line the guard has to the frame is right on. I thought the sacrifice of a little piece of plastic was worth the better fit of this guard. If you want to provide an E-mail address I will send you pics of the shield. I have yet to figure out how to do it here. Curt |
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BMac1100 |
#10 | |||
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HSATF Member
Posts: 28 08/17/07 11:45 AM |
Curt, Thanks so much for your guidance on how to cut the shield. Like you, I thought the MC design was superior to Cobra's design because it follows the
lines of the bike much better. The shield hitting the bar is more of a nuisance than anything else (once you get used to it) but I'll gladly sacrifice the
small amount of plastic on the shield to make lock to lock turns a litttle more comfortable.
Thanks Again, Bill |
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GaleRich |
#11 | |||
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HSATF 2nd Officer
Posts: 482 08/20/07 11:19 AM Road Captain |
Curt:
Can you post some pictures here? I've been debating cutting my shield because of the same issue. - Rich |
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hoosierace |
#12 | |||
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HSATF Member
Posts: 32 08/21/07 8:43 AM |
Here are the pics of the shield mod for the MC Engine guards. Hopr they are of some help. 1st timer on posting pics. Hope they help.
hoosierace 
Last Edited By: hoosierace 08/21/07 8:46 AM.
Edited 1 time.
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GaleRich |
#13 | |||
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HSATF 2nd Officer
Posts: 482 08/21/07 3:49 PM Road Captain |
Thanks for the pics. When you cut or sand the shield, is it resistant to the friction heat, or will it melt if you cut too slow or sand to fast if you use a
power sander?
- Rich |
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bamaTrider |
#14 | |||
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HSATF 1st Officer
Posts: 3990 08/21/07 10:16 PM |
Cut slow with a medium tooth blade designated for cutting acrylic. If you still experience heat, then a shot of WD40 or mineral spirits will help reduce the
friction. Sand with a hand held block sander using 100 grit paper to start, then finish up with 220 grit. No need for power sander....the plastic will sand and
shape easily.
Stan
"We are different - yet we are the
same"
2004 GL1800 Goldwing (Titanium) 1999 Ace Tourer (Silver over Black) |
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hoosierace |
#15 | |||
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HSATF Member
Posts: 32 08/23/07 9:39 AM |
I purchased a blade for my jigsaw from Menards designed to cut plastic. I used masking tape in the area I was planning on cutting. 2 reasons for this was to
outline on the masking tape for the cut and also to resist any scratching from the jigsaw on the shield. Just a precaution. Cutting the shield was easy. The
plade goes through like butter. I went slow to get the best/precise cut as possibly. It took just a few mins to do both sides. I used the cut piece from the
one side and taped it to the other side to get a perfect match. I used a sanding block with 200 grit paper. Just took my time to smooth out the roughness.
There was not much to sand. Like I said before it turned out fine. A person will need to get up real close to beable to tell it was modified.
Shield was removed and the work was performed on a serface large enough for the shield. Also the jigsaw is variable speed. The speed I used was around 50% for the reason to eliminate possibly melting. Good Luck Curt
Last Edited By: hoosierace 08/23/07 9:46 AM.
Edited 1 time.
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GaleRich |
#16 | |||
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HSATF 2nd Officer
Posts: 482 08/24/07 7:57 AM Road Captain |
I wonder if this can be done OK with a hand-held variable speed sabre saw without removing the shield?
- Rich |
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alepel |
#17 | |||
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Posts: 8216 08/24/07 11:51 AM
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Oh Boy Rich....I wouldn't go there if I were you. That's asking for trouble.
alepel |
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bamaTrider |
#18 | |||
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HSATF 1st Officer
Posts: 3990 08/24/07 8:27 PM |
I would think that it could be done w/o incident if you loosen the signal clamp and move it out of the way. Just turn your forks left to cut the R side....then
right to cut the L side. If you are on the side stand, then you should attach a bungee cord to the R handle bar grip area and hook it to the left side of the
bike to keep the forks from swinging back on you while you cut. Also make sure everything (wires, cables, signals, etc.) is out of the way of the blade from
the back side of the shield. I'd personally rather pull the shield myself.
Stan
"We are different - yet we are the
same"
2004 GL1800 Goldwing (Titanium) 1999 Ace Tourer (Silver over Black) |
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hoosierace |
#19 | |||
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HSATF Member
Posts: 32 08/27/07 7:15 PM |
Definitely pull the shield. Best to work on a bench with making this critical cut. Easier to make a horizontal cut then vertical on the Bike. Also gives you
the opportunity to detail around the headlight, etc.
Curt |
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