Before.......
(scroll over to see the outboard pad)
and After ............
I used EBC double-H. We'll see if I like their friction properties or not on the back. The originals went 19,560mi.
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dukey33 |
New pads |
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Ok, I'm really just playing around with the yuku features but I replaced the rear pads on my Shadow this afternoon.
Before....... (scroll over to see the outboard pad)
and After ............
I used EBC double-H. We'll see if I like their friction properties or not on the back. The originals went 19,560mi.
duke
loud horns save lives |
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Fredrider |
#1 | |||
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Duke, some people would be ashamed of you for letting your pads wear down so far. Others would, "hey boy, you've got another few hundred miles left
on those, don't be throwing those out just yet". It looks to me like you got your money's worth without any harm coming from it.
The new pads look strong!
Fred
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bamaTrider |
#2 | |||
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Perfect timing, I would say. Nows the time for everyone to do a quick check of their pads. If you can't see the groove, then it's time to make your
move.
Stan
"We are different - yet we are the
same"
2004 GL1800 Goldwing (Titanium) 1999 Ace Tourer (Silver over Black) |
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Skip MMShadowT |
#3 | |||
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I'd say you got all you could out of those babies.
"We want to be free... Free to ride our machines without being hassled by the man!" |
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burninfilm |
#4 | |||
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Duke, I just did the same repair this afternoon. I also used EBC's. I was unable to make the pads fit with the metal snap-on piece and plastic spacer that
goes on the back so I only put it on the outside pad and then they fit ok. I think it is only for noise abatement and the shop manual says nothing about
putting them on the new pads.. Anyway, took a test ride and all is well.. Really a pretty easy job....BTW, I think, from looking at your old pads, you timed it
just right...Bob <><
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CleRider |
#5 | |||
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Fred,
I'm not going to show you how worn down my front pads were. I don't think I could take the scolding. All I can say is, I'm glad Honda put an extra thick coat of glue on mine. Trying to exchange the fluids and bleed the brake lines. With dual front calipers and a linked system, everything goes everywhere. I just ordered some speed bleeders and should have them by this weekend. The speed bleeders have an internal spring loaded valve that makes bleeding a one person job without any vacuum pumps or the constant "open valve - pump - close valve - release pedal" routine. Andy |
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Fredrider |
#6 | |||
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Andy,
Don't take my fun away. Let me see the glue you were using to stop your steed. Did the glue smell give away that it was time to change the brakes or was it the last two stop signs you blew through? I am real interested to hear what you think of the speed bleeders after you have a chance to use them. I have been trying to figure out whether to buy them or a Mityvac . I borrowed my neighbor's Mityvac the last time I did my brakes. It's getting about time I did them again.
Fred
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alepel |
#7 | |||
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Fred....last spring I was having a problem with my hydralic clutch. So I cleaned out the resevoir and then tried to bleed the line. Try as I might, with my
brother's help we couldn't get the air out of the line.
So finally I ran over to Harbor Freight and bought an inexpensive vaccum bleeder. Once hooked up it took a matter of seconds and the line was free of air and I had a clutch again. I could not believe the difference it made. Now I have a vaccum bleeder for future use and I couldn't recemmend it highly enough. Alain |
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CleRider |
#8 | |||
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Fred,
I tried a MityVac and did not have any success. Kept getting air in the line and when I didn't get the reservoir filled in time I had to start over. Since the brakes are linked I have two bleeders on each caliper, plus the clutch is hydraulic too. I got brake lines running everywhere. In my search I found an interesting product by Motive, called a power bleeder. It's a garden sprayer tank with a few brake reservoir lids tied together with a plastic line. The theory is you pump pressurized brake fluid into the reservoir and release the pressure at the bleeder. It does two things: - Keeps an ample supply of brake fluid in the reservoir since it is constantly being fed from the one gallon tank - Since the fluid is being pushed from the reservoir rather than being pulled from the bleeder, there is less of a chance of getting air in the line. After studying the design, I decided I will try to build one. I can get a one gallon sprayer from Lowes or Home Depot, pick up a couple of hose clamps, about 4-5 feet of plastic line, a couple of brass fittings and an aftermarket brake reservoir cover. If you look at the Motive website (or TrackHaus.com) you'll see what I'm talking about and will get a general idea. BTW, I'll dig the pads out of the rubbish and snap a pic or two. I knew I was going to change the pads and ordered a replacement set last year (when HondaDirectLine had a sale). Since I had my bike torn down to change the coolant, brake & clutch fluid, oil, final drive and check the valve clearances I figured I'd change out the brakes too. The front tire is down to the wear bars so I'll change that out too. It all started when I called my local stealer to see how much a 32k service would run. When he said $700-$800 I decided to do it myself. Oh yeah, one more thing. We don't have to stop for no stinking stop signs. Andy |
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CleRider |
#9 | |||
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I don't know Fred. I think there is at least 3-4k miles left on these.
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bamaTrider |
#10 | |||
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My son bought the speed bleeders last month and says that it worked great. He had an ATV that he was having trouble getting all the air out and the speed
bleeder did the trick. I have been told that a plastic qt. sqeeze bottle (such as what gear oil comes in), and a section of plastic hose attached to the small
tip of it works great also. You clean the bottle thoroughly, fill with plenty of fluid. and then attach the hose to the bleeder valve. You then open the valve
and start sqeezing the fluid in from the bottom up. When the resevoir is full, just suction the excess fluid off using a baby syringe or a turkey baster. You
repeat this until there is no more air bubbles coming into the resevoir. The theory being that it's easier to get the air to go up than down. Sounds
logical but have not tried it yet. I was also told that there is a vacuum bleeder system that will also pump the fluid, not just vacuum it. I'm looking for
one of these types my self. Any time you are working with brake fluid, be sure to protect the paint work. A garbage bag weighted down with an old bath towel or
shop rags works good for protecting the tank and fenders from splatters.
Stan
"We are different - yet we are the
same"
2004 GL1800 Goldwing (Titanium) 1999 Ace Tourer (Silver over Black) |
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Fredrider |
#11 | |||
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Alain,
Before you mentioned it I had not considered the problems associated with trying to bleed a linked brake system. Hopefully you find the technology that allows you to do it easily. Good luck. Stan, Thanks for the splatter tip.
Fred
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CleRider |
#12 | |||
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Stan,
I like that idea. Never thought of bleeding from the caliper back to the reservoir. My speed bleeders came in yesterday so I guess I'll give them a shot. Going to install them this weekend and will report back next. Now I have another problem. I had the right muffler off to service the brakes and final drive. Since I had more work to do, I left the muffler off, fired up the bike and moved it from the garage to the barn. I liked the way the bike sounded with straight pipes... so I just bought a set of Torq Monsters (used) to install. I can run a louder bike around town and then install some additional baffles for touring. With the baffles the pipes sound like stock. Kind of the best of both worlds. Andy |
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tonythecarguy |
#13 | |||
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Stan,
I think you are thinking of these guys Phoenix Injector®. they claim to have invented pushing clean fluid in at the bleeder so the air goes up to the master. they call it Reverse Fluid Injection® or RFI®. they have been around for a while i remember reading about them in Hot rod magazine probably 10 years ago. Tony
Last Edited By: tonythecarguy 04/11/07 12:54 PM.
Edited 1 time.
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bamaTrider |
#14 | |||
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Thanks for the link, Tony. This is what I was looking for, but remember seeing it somewhere else a little cheaper. May have been Northern Tools or JC Whitney.
Stan
"We are different - yet we are the
same"
2004 GL1800 Goldwing (Titanium) 1999 Ace Tourer (Silver over Black) |
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CleRider |
#15 | |||
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Fred,
Installed the Speed Bleeders yesterday. I don't know why I waited so long. These have to be one of the greatest inventions of the 21st century. It probably took me about 45 minutes to flush and bleed all the lines. Due the to complexity of a linked brake system I had to jump from the front to the back of the bike every step. To bleed the back pedal I had to vent five different bleeders. After the brakes, I installed one on my clutch line. I was surprised to see how much old fluid and air was still in the line, even after I thought I did a good job with the vacumm pump. Needless to say, all air and old fluid is gone and the brakes/clutch feel like a new bike. I would whole heartedly recommend Speed Bleeders. They are only $7 each and I think you will only need two for the T. My wing required eight ; two for each caliper, anti-dive valve and the clutch. One additional plus... on my calipers some of the bleeder nuts were 10mm and some were 8mm, generally one of each. Not sure why because the size did not correspond to the brake line circuit. With the speed bleeders, all are now 5/16". FYI, the size for all Honda's except the PC800 is the SB8125. They come in three lengths: SB8125 which is 28mm long; SB8125L which is 33 mm long and SB8125LL which is 38 mm long; and two flavors - stock steel at $7.00 each or $16 each for stainless steel. I wanted to buy the 8125L's but they only had five in stock so I got three 8125LL's. I think the LL's are too long but will work. Mosts sites recommend the 8125L's but I think I could have done better with the short 8125's. Andy |
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