As a traveling nurse, I get to change locations regularly. I do miss my main home, but I've always pretty much been able to be "at home" nearly anywhere I go. This is especially true of my most recent position, at the Fort Defiance Indian Hospital or look here at the official Navajo Area Indian Health Service link
Fort Defiance, or, "Fort" is 7 or 8 miles north of Window Rock, Arizona (which is the capital of the Navajo Nation). Window Rock is on the AZ/NM border, about 25 miles north of I-40.
Can you see the Codetalker statue?
The hospital itself is about 2 miles north of Fort. It's a very new place, about 5 years new, & a really well designed & beautiful hospital. This area has some of the most intriguing geology I've ever seen!
It is prettier here (to me) than Sedona, which of course is "famous" for it's sandstone structures & colors. The shapes & structures here are more varied, & I like that there are way fewer people here, too.
Anyhow....
I of course brought my m/c along - recently bought a Kendon trailer (found on Craigslist, in Phoenix, for absolutely the right price), and am I ever happy with it! I've made numerous rides out here, & thought I'd try to share a little of my travels (as well as some other general "b.s.")
One Saturday about 5 or 6 weeks ago, since I was forced (as usual) to do a little exploring, I left my "new home" around 9 am, headed north, & basically rounded the Chuska Mtns; was a great ride; came down into a view of Shiprock, & the Sleeping Ute, both huge landmarks of the 4 corners area…
It was loop ride around the mountains, & I just came right back into Gallup, NM & back to Window Rock, AZ.
The next day's ride was even better; & more story to tell...
I left about the same time, headed into Gallup, then south. Zuni Pueblo is a famous area for pottery & fetishes. I had told my mother I'd be living/working in this area, & she asked if I had the chance to make a trip there, to get her some fetishes (she's been a long time collector). She even gave me names of Zuni artists that she would particularly like to have pieces by.
So. . . .
On my way into Zuni, I saw a sign for town of Blackrock, & the hospital sign; so, thought I'd take a look-see. I met a really sweet little lady, the security guard, & we visited - the people around here are incredibly friendly!!!
I told her my story, & she said "wait just a minute…" & called her daughter, who happened to work in the lab, & was getting off work. She actually met me & led me to the heart of town (the old mission), then drove me to the home of one of the famous fetish carvers! As I walked up to the house, a couple came out from next door & asked if they could help me - I told my story, & that I was seeking Claudia Peina - they said she was in Albuquerque, and, they were family, and they proceeded to invite me into their home, to show me their personal art collection!
As I was admiring them & listening to the details about them, a young man entered the room & introduced himself: Gabe Sice!! (He later told me "I'm not famous…)
During our visiting, he invited me into his workshop to show his wares, & asked if I was interested in purchasing anything today; I picked out a couple bears (one was of deer antler, the other of elk), and a sweet little corn maiden! The price was incredible, & I got to watch (& even take a few photos of him finishing them).
We went back into his house, where he did the final ear/nose/tail burns w/ a gas torch. His father proceeded to tell me about the "mask dance" that he would be dancing in - "as long as you're here, you should really come watch." This was about 12 noon, & having a few hours to spare ("the dance usually doesn't start until around 5pm or so") I decided to head back east, and ended up in
El Morro National Monument.
That is a sight to behold! I did the entire loop hike, it was about 2 miles, saw some incredible scenery, & ruins & petroglyphs….
Also, the ride through Ramah is really pretty; I'll be out there again before long!
After hiking around & thoroughly enjoying that part of the world, I made the 30 + miles back into Zuni, & to the place where I was earlier shown that the dance would take place. I climbed the steps up to the balcony ("since you are a non-Indian, you cannot be on the ground level with the religious dancers" said Gabe's father), & there were some people there who said "they don't come out by the clock, they come out when they're ready." Well, I went back into a town to "Choo Choo's" for a great hamburger, one of the biggest juiciest burgers I've had in a long while. As I returned to the dance site, I parked my ride & sat on the porch of some people's house & visited; not 5 minutes went by & we heard the drums - the dancers were coming out!
I climbed the roof, and saw one of the most amazing sites I've ever seen = there were approximately 12 dancers w/ bow/arrow & pine sprigs, & about 5 or 6 "mud men" along with one drummer, & one other dancer, the only one without a "mask," who was occasionally spreading a little corn pollen on the ground for the main dancers. I had no clue whatsoever this ceremony was about (I was told there are 6 kivas, and that this was the very last of the "summer dances," in case any of you know what that means).
The sound of the drum, the chanting & occasional "hooting" made by the dancers was very awe-inspiring. I looked around on the balcony, & saw that I was the only biligaana (white person) in the entire group. I also felt that I was seeing something that maybe I wasn't really supposed to be seeing! But, all had made me feel welcome. Interestingly too, every person I came into contact with before the dance made sure to tell me "no pictures!" There was also a sign just outside the pueblo that stated in no uncertain terms "no photography or recording of any type." I was glad I'd left my camera...
The costumes were just incredible, & the whole experience was very mystical, very spiritual to me… Hope to see more of these.
So, jumped on my scooter & headed west, one man told about a cutoff to shorten my ride, & found all roads to be in most excellent condition!
The sky was crazy looking; after getting hit with approximately 18 big rain drops, I decided to pullover to get on the rain gear; man, was I glad I did - a good solid hard rain for about 20 miles! (& my bike now works fine in the rain! for those of you who may remember my experiences on my Colorado trip).
Saw some antelope, otherwise, lots of really crazy sky & clouds….
Got about 200 miles in, & what a day to remember!
Just about 3 weeks ago, I headed west from Fort, through Ganado & Steamboat, over to the Hopi Reservation & through Keams Canyon, Polacca, & Oraibi; this road eventually comes out at Tuba City, where the "western part" of the Navajo Nation fair was going on. A Navajo friend of mine told me to be extra careful there, he said "lot's of my people over there don't even know how to drive on paved roads!" & he laughed... I was glad he'd warned me at least; I've been through Tuba often, but never seen it so busy! I had hoped to take in some of the fair,but, decided to just gas up & get on outta there before something did happen!
Well, I just rolled on south; it was only 70 or so miles to Flag, so I headed on down & spent the night at my own home.
Next morning, I took another familiar ride; back east through Payson, through that beautiful countryside to Heber, then Holbrook, then a little further east, headed north On 77 & back through Greasewood, to Ganado, & back again to Fort. Very nice traveling, & all good roads!
My most recent ride, I headed north & eventually made my way to Farmington, NM, then Crownpoint, NM, & back home again. Mileage (as obtained by Garmin Legend C = 312 glorious miles! about 6 hours actual saddle time; about 10 hours actual trip time. I departed at 9am. The plan was literally only to go up to Buffalo Pass - from there, there was no other plan! (I love those sort of Plans - see where the day takes you!)
Anyhow,
I rolled northward to Navajo, and further through some incredible country.
Then on past the Wheatfields Lake, a Beautiful fishing hole, I might add...
I cruised past Tsaile (that's one turnoff to go to Chinle, to get to Canyon de Chelly, an incredible place if you've never been there. I myself only made it recently as an adult (my folks took us there several times as kids, but, as kids, I think we pretty much forgot about it; it wasn't "our thing" at the time), & continued north.
Further on to Lukachukai (luh-kaw-tchuh-guy), where I began the easterly part of the ride. A friend told me to watch for the spring near the side of the road as I went up the hill; very fortunately, found it!! and stopped for some very sweet refreshing water. IT WAS GOOD!!!
Now I don't have the facts, other than what I was told; Buffalo Pass was only paved one or two years ago; I do believe it is the steepest and the most twisty paved public road I have ever been on, bar none.... I'll try to get an aerial photo of it, to give you an idea, as well as what the climb was; a very slow, windy road, like only bikers can really appreciate! (can't imagine ANY biker doing this road FAST...)
The view from the top is nearly beyond description. From the pass, you can see, of course, the Shiprock, but you can also see the Sleeping Ute in southwest Colorado! I sort of think you can see the Mississippi River from here (but I may be wrong on that one). Well, you get the point; the View Goes On Forever!
The Shiprock itself is one amazing thing to see; if you haven't I hope you can get the opportunity to cruise by...
The rest of the trip, I only stopped twice for pictures; once for the start of dusk, & made buddies with a sweet little rez dog... gave her some leftover sandwich, & all the rest of my drinking water; she was happy about that!
The next stop was for some pretty incredible sunset action, I only hope my pix do it justice!
My last stop was Crownpoint, NM, where I almost left town without gassing up; got a few miles down the road, & realized I'd come about 80 miles from Farmington; & it was quite a bit more to the next gas stop; so, back to town I went, got directions, & a great cup of coffee to knock off the beginning chill, & did the final 80 or so miles home.
The last 100 or so miles was in the dark, which, I don't really recommend out here, since there are any number of dogs, sheep, cattle, goats, horses, & even people along the side of the road, that come out with no warning whatsoever. So far, luck has been with me, but, like any other time while riding, stay alert!
