Help, won't start!!

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ramblnman64	Help, won't start!!		Lead	[-]
HSATF Member Posts: 27 04/22/08 9:35 PM	Tags : None Hello again gentlemen, I'm finally back from Iraq all fired up to enjoy my T and it won't start. It has been sitting for 3 months, I charged the battery first put the choke on about 90% and after a few cranks it started ran for about 2min died and won't start again. I let it sit for several hours in chase I flooded it and tried again, no luck. I followed all the guide lines in the owners manual, cold start, hot start, flooded. The dealer I bought it from said it was fully serviced, HMMM. It does look like it has new plug wires though. OK any ideas--HELP I wanna RIDE. David
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bamaTrider		#1	[url]	[-]
HSATF 1st Officer Posts: 3539 04/22/08 10:22 PM	Gas in the tank? Fuel valve handle pointed down or up (up for reserve...down for main tank)? Sounds like it is fuel related. I wouldn't think the carbs had gummed in only 3 months. If you have checked for gas and the valve is on, then next slowly screw out the brass screw on the bottom of the carb bowls. Put a rag under them to catch the fuel drops. There should be about an ounce drain from each one. If so then there is enough fuel getting to the carbs to start. Sometimes when the T sits for several weeks......it can take several attempts before it will start. I usually turn it over for 5 seconds or so, then turn off the ignition for 5-10 seconds, then on again, turn over for 5 seconds more. Do this for 3 -4 tries or until it starts. What this does is allow the pump to pressurize when the engine is turned over, then the 5-10 seconds wait with the ignition off will allow it time to fill the bowls. This also helps save the battery power. Stan "We are different - yet we are the same" 2004 GL1800 Goldwing (Titanium) 1999 Ace Tourer (Silver over Black)
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ramblnman64		#2	[url]	[-]
HSATF Member Posts: 27 04/22/08 10:53 PM	OK I'll try that sequence, Thanks Stan. I was hoping one of you guys would be monitoring here tonight. I'll let you know the out come tomorrow. David
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alepel		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 7575 04/23/08 7:00 AM	Like I said in an earlier posting.....is the kill switch off. And has anything nested in your air cleaner? Pull the seat off and make certain no critters have made a nest in the cavity of the air cleaner. alepel "Ride with the Spirit always, and in all ways"....hombldr
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ramblnman64		#4	[url]	[-]
HSATF Member Posts: 27 04/24/08 7:45 PM	OK, guys thanks for the help. I got it going, I'm a dumb***, it was the fuel valve not all the way on. Well she runs great (with fuel) and rides nice. Before I even rode it I cut the resinators out of the pipes. Question- what is the best synthetic oil for the T's? And with the wet clutch can we use friction reducers with the oil or will that hender the clutch?
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Skip MMShadowT		#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 5460 04/24/08 9:10 PM	Glad you figured it out. As for oil, I've been using 5w40 RotellaT for two years. It full syn and I've had great service out of it. "We want to be free... Free to ride our machines without being hassled by the man!"
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tonythecarguy		#6	[url]	[-]
HSATF 2nd Officer Posts: 466 04/25/08 9:49 AM	Oil or additives with friction modifiers is a no no on any wet clutch. An oil that does NOT have the "energy conserving" star-burst on it should be OK. I too like the 5w40 Rotella. i started using it after skip's rave reviews, can't beat the price at Walmart either. They have recently reformulated their conventional 15W40 to pass the JASO MA (japanise motorcycle wet cluch) standard. The reformulated synthetic which will also pass the JASO standard is supposed to be coming soon. The current formulation has just a bit too much ash in it to meet the standard but other wise does. The extra ash will not hurt the T just the environment, but not much, it is only a .2% over the new standard with the old formulation. Tony
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Fredrider		#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 5701 04/28/08 3:53 PM	I also am happily using the Rotella 5W-40. Fred
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